Diving in Flores

Maumere Dive Sites

An Indonesian liveaboard trip gives you the perfect chance to sample the best of Flores scuba diving and add some new, small fish and aquatic animals to your knowledge base, since it is an area that's known for its endemic species.

Although the combined effects of dynamite fishing and the earthquake and tsunami of 1992 caused damage to certain areas including Maumere, the regeneration of the reefs here is cause for celebration.

Space was cleared by these natural phenomena, which has allowed new corals to flourish and bring an even greater diversity to the sites. Once considered among Indonesia's finest dive sites, Maumere Bay is well on its way to a full recovery and provides some excellent and interesting Flores diving opportunities.

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Dive Site Descriptions

At South Pangah Balang you may have some current to deal with as you descend over the mass of large leather corals which are present in numbers along the sloping wall that plateaus at around 28 metres. Soft corals abound here too, in impressive sizes and spectacular colours. The sight is enough to take your breath away but faces competition in this regard from the finning you may be doing to combat the current.

Just above the sandy floor you may catch sight of any number of sharks and eagle rays lazily hanging in the current, and garden eels easing themselves into their bottom holes as you pass above. All the while colour will surround you in the shallows where you may find mantis shrimps, several leaffish and other small interesting animals. Bumphead parrotfish a metre in length are also often seen as they storm over the reef. When air dictates, you will emerge from this dive, perhaps a little drained, but certainly energised by this excellent Flores dive site.

Wai Terang - Just off the coast of mainland Flores you will find this Japanese World War II freighter lying on its side from a depth of 25 metres up to about 12 metres. The coral growth on this wreck has improved considerably over the years and now the old ship plays host to a fair number of hard and soft corals harbouring small fish life.

One thing you should try to avoid is kicking up the silt here since a careless hand or leg in poor visibility could bring your skin into contact with one of the many resident lionfish, a sensation worse than a nip. Eels, cuttlefish and anthias are among the other pleasures to be had on what is a very rewarding wreck dive, if not one that allows too much penetration.

Adonara Island in east Flores has a few established dive sites like Magic Log where frogfish and ribbon eels are common. The Wonderpus octopus has been seen here, as has the very rare weedy scorpionfish (Rhinopias). All around the island there are headlands and channels that are gradually being explored by visiting liveaboards and Flores diving boats but there is still a lot of unexpored territory to discover in this area.

Babi Island is a surprisingly good dive considering that this island bore the worst of the 1992 tsunami impact on Flores. 1,000 inhabitants were killed when the wave swept over the island but, over a decade later, the reef wall is in pristine condition. Dropping down to a depth of about 50 metres, it is sometimes possible to see the sea floor from the surface however a more usual visibility is about 15 metres. Snappers, angelfish, parrotfish and damselfish all occupy the wall. Several species of moray eel can be found as well as ribbon eels.

There is a good covering of soft corals and sponges all along the wall and the brightly coloured crinoids like to jump off the wall to attach themselves to wetsuits of the unsuspecting diver who gets too close. Numerous sea apples add splashes of blue and red colour. Testament to the regeneration of the reef is the number of gorgonian seafans along the wall, the biggest ones found at depths of 35 metres and below. Currents can be strong here making for an excellent drift dive.

Also well worth exploring is Lambata Island. The headland next to Lamalera Village is worth several days diving alone. The shadowy shape of reef sharks tempt you out into the depths from where you can make your way back up through the boulders and coral. Huge angelfish are common as are parrotfish and schools of fusiliers. Searches in gorgonian seafans could find pygmy seahorses. Also, as Lamalera is 1 of only 2 traditional whaling villages left in Flores (whatever happened to IWC protection?), you never know what you might see in the surrounding seas.

How to Dive Flores

The dive sites of the island are spread quite far apart so the only way to visit them all is by an Indonesia liveaboard.

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Diving Season

The best conditions for diving Flores are from April to December as this usually forms the majority of the dry season..

Reef Summary

Good for: Small animals, drift dives and snorkelling
Not so good for: Beginner divers and non-diving activities
Depth: 12 - 28m
Visibility: 8 - 30m
Currents: Can be strong
Surface conditions: Can be rough
Water temperature: 25 - 30°C
Experience level: Intermediate - advanced
Number of dive sites: ~10
Distance: ~800 km east of Bali (40 hours), 350 km west of West Timor (18 hours)
Access: Flores liveaboard
Recommended length of stay: 3 - 4 days

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