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‘Fishy’ was the humorously simplistic term often used in dive briefings on this trip. A descriptor I initially found a bit silly, ultimately came to define my views on the Solomons by the end of this 10 day cruise. The Solomons really is fishy. There are lots of fish here. There are lot of species here too. When I close my eyes I see schools of fish cascading down the reef, sweeping across my field of vision or gathering in layers at a current-swept finger of the reef. How so many dive destinations would love to boast such a level of fishiness!
It was in November that I answered the call to make my way to the South Pacific to join the 1st name in Solomon Islands liveaboards, Bilikiki. Named after a long-legged bird of the region this local legend of a boat has been plying these waters for decades, running liveaboard diving cruises, scientific expeditions and whale watching tours. It was really an end of the season trip and, with coral spawning taking place, it was likely that visibility would not be at its year-round peak. However, that did not stop us from enjoying a great trip with many wonderful dives (up to 5 a day!) mixed in with joyous cultural visits to some of these remote islands to be greeted with warm, but shy smiles from the locals.
As this was my first time in the Solomon Islands I was not exactly sure what to expect. Would it be like my experiences of the soft corals and South Pacific charm of Fiji? Would it be more like the sharks and meaty pelagic action of the Coral Sea in Australia? Driving from the airport through the wide, dusty, SUV clogged streets of Honiara, past ramshackle facades of shops selling hardware, fishing tackle, clothes and phone credit, it struck me that the South Pacific Island charm might have to wait. Thankfully there was plenty of it to enjoy once we were at sea cruising up to the Russell Islands then Marovo Lagoon, Mary Island and The Floridas.
Above the surface we enjoyed ever-changing views of verdant tropical islands fringed with sandy beaches, mangroves or rocky shorelines. The waters were clean and noticeably unpolluted with the plastic bottles and floating rubbish that blights many diving destinations. With a national population of around 700,000, population density is not a factor affecting the ocean outside of the capital region.
Underwater, the diving in the Solomons is a mix of walls and slopes teeming with life, wrecks of seaplanes and boats from WWII and more recent, submerged pinnacles, swim-throughs and tunnels, plus the audio bonus of the slightly eerie sound of a rumbling volcano. Such variety of sites is one of the factors that sets the Solomon Islands apart. The number of fish and the species diversity is another. Every day I was pouring over the fish ID books and having species chat with the knowledgeable staff and guests. For example, there are 9 species of anemonefish in the Solomon Islands and we saw them all including the white bonnet anemonefish that is endemic to the Solomons and PNG. There are innumerable species of parrotfish and on some dives I counted 7 or 8. There are just so many species on most of the dives, both adult and juvenile that it is too much to put into words. 2 species that do seem to be present in massive numbers on most dives are blue and yellow fusiliers and diamond butterflyfish. You can’t move for those two.
Behaviour is also notable with a lot of cleaning wrasses around (to service the booming fish population) and I was awestruck at the light show put on at Rainbow Reef by the big nose unicornfish dramatically changing its entire body’s appearance right before my eyes. Add to this the fun of the swim throughs and slightly nervy experience of dropping down the lava tunnels at Twin Towers, plus the historical interest in the WWII wrecks (such as the Mavis seaplane), and it all adds up to a pretty special destination.
Looking for big stuff in the blue, which in season would, I am told, normally yield some results (sharks, eagle rays, mobula rays, tuna, Napoleon wrasse) was less of a feature for us with visibility being a limiting factor. I did see a few sharks which was fun, especially when the dive guide wasn’t scraping a plastic bottle to bring them closer. I am not a fan of that practice I must say. Diving ought not to be an on-demand experience. We are there to observe what’s happening if you ask me, not to hit the shark button on the remote control. Rant over. Although I didn’t see any rays we did encounter those other creatures here and there.
Small stuff was also plentiful with many anemones playing host to peacock-tailed shrimp and porcelain crabs, sea whips with gobies and commensal shrimp, crinoids with clingfish and squat lobsters, soft coral crabs, nudibranchs and flat worms aplenty.
The corals were pristine in some areas, suffering in others. There have been 2 bad bleaching events in February 2024 and February 2025. While the damage from these is evident and lamentable, I am told that there are visible signs of recovery showing that the reefs can rebound and quickly, as long as the temperatures remain tolerable. Let’s hope they do!
A couple of senior, many-time, returning guests told me before we boarded that the Bilikiki ‘has a lot of soul’. It certainly has a lot of history in these waters and has done all manner of expeditions in the Solomon islands over many, many years. My impression from the photographs was that it looked more functional than frilly. It had the appearance of a no-nonsense expedition vessel more than a liveaboard for wide-eyed open water couples who might value massages and mojitos as much as muck diving! So there was maybe a suspicion in my mind that it might lack comfort. Would I feel like I was on a scientific research vessel or a luxury South Pacific Islands dive charter?
I need not have been concerned. It was perfectly comfortable. From the beds to the lounge, the outdoor dining area to the sundeck, the comfort level is really fine. An awning over the sun deck would be a fantastic addition though, as it is an under-used part of the boat due to the strong sun exposure. If I picture a permanent roof and some built-in comfortable furniture as well as movable loungers, I can see this being the main socialising spot, which would add a lot to the on-board experience. As it is, people tend to sit around the dining tables and chat, which is fine, but another, more relaxing option would be great. A main deck bathroom, maybe on the dive deck would also be a welcome addition since rushing to your cabin for that post-dive release, or after a few evening beers, is not ideal.
Bilikiki has a very open feel with the dining area and the sundeck and the dive deck all enjoying a wrap-around view of the tropical scenery. The indoor lounge area also has large windows so it always feels roomy and bright and the ever-changing surroundings provide a dynamic backdrop at all times. So in fact what you might see as simplicity is in reality one of the boat’s greatest assets: keep it simple, let the destination shine. Bilikiki has been around a long time doing cruises in the Solomons. They know what works for them and their systems have been refined over a long time so you can be sure the long-serving crew know what they are doing and that you are in good and competent hands.
To stay connected I got a free sim card on arrival at Honiara and topped up for 2 weeks which cost 100 Solomons dollars (around USD 12). Emperor Bilikiki has excellent Starlink internet though so I needn’t have bothered. It was quite strange to be somewhere so remote and have such good internet.
Strangely for a boat offering 5 dives a day, things don’t kick off with: Pre-breakfast, dive 1, breakfast. Often a full day on a liveaboard means rising, quick coffee and off to the dive deck, before hitting the water, ending your dive looking forward to the reward of your yummy breakfast. That’s a great way to get the diving started without much delay and the leisurely breakfast doubles as surface interval. On Emperor Bilikiki, and I am still not sure why, guests start appearing shortly after 6 am to find the food already out and start the day with a leisurely breakfast before finally gathering at the dive deck about 7:30 am. Choices include cereals, muesli and oatmeal and/or the cooked breakfast of eggs, beans sausages, or bacon with toast. Coffee, various teas, hot chocolate and juices are available to wash it all down.
Snacks are always on hand between dives - normally a big bowl of salted popcorn and an ever-changing platter of freshly baked cookies or cakes, as well as a fruit plate consisting of watermelon, pineapple, bananas, mango and papaya. Savoury snack platters (crackers, dip, olives, gherkins, nuts) are laid out after dive 4 which runs into dinner so be careful not to snack too much or you’ll spoil your appetite for the main event. Dinner is laid out buffet-style in the indoor lounge and you plate for yourself before moving out to the dining tables on the foredeck. There is a good range of choice here usually between 2 meats and 1 vegetarian option, plus potatoes, rice or pasta, vegetables like green beans, aubergines and local stuffed courgettes and always a couple of salad options (normally one classic salad and one based around fruit).
I had absolutely no complaints about the food. It wasn’t oily or overly fried as can be the case sometimes. The variety was great and stocks of vegetables were regularly topped up via purchases from locals who would row out in their hollowed-out canoes with fresh produce for sale, so there was very little (although some) canned ingredients. Based on the positive feedback I heard from other guests the food was a great success.
There are 10 deluxe cabins. All are on the lower deck - 8 cabins with a lower double bed and upper single bed, and 2 with twin bed (cabins 1 and 2). All staterooms have en-suite bathrooms. I slept in cabin 4 in the double bed. None of the cabins have windows or portholes. Some guests might not love the absence of natural light. Personally I slept better on this boat than any other liveaboard I can recall. I and some of the other guests discussed how very comfortable the beds were and of course how the nitrogen from all that diving certainly helps. Calm seas also helped to make night time crossings more of a gentle rocking than being thrown around the place.
The cabins feature centrally controlled air conditioning. This means it is coolest in cabins 1 and 2 and it gets progressively less cool as you make you way forward to cabins along the corridor towards 9 and 10. No-one complained about their cabin temperatures and there is always the ability to close the AC vents a little or to turn on your fan if you need a little boost. Cabins 1 and 2 are closest to engine room. 9 and 10 are closest to anchor. These can be factors of note when the boat hoists the anchor (very slowly) and moves during the night as is often the case on these trips which cover considerable distances. Cabin numbers 3-8 are in the sweetest spot, so check with us when booking if we can request one of these for you.
When you join a Bilikiki dive cruise you are joining a well-oiled machine. They have functioning systems in place and, once you get into the swing, everything runs like clockwork. Promising 5 dives a day is testament to the diver focus of the crew of Emperor Bilikiki. Some guests on our cruise were diving nuts: 5 dives a day, every day. Always a night dive or a blackwater dive. Taking photographs. Diving solo. Nothing was too much trouble for the crew. It’s that kind of cruise. If you are a capable, experienced diver you won’t be babied into staying within touching distance of a buddy or always following the guide or never exceeding a specific dive time. This is diving for adults. That’s not to say they won’t look after you if that is what you want. They can and will. Whatever the divers’ needs are they will do their best to meet them. However, if you are independent-minded divers, as the Solomon Islands seem to attract, you will be given the freedom you crave.
There are no annoying bells rung for dive time. The times are on the board. It is up to you to be present on the dive deck if you wish to dive. You move your name tag (if you can remember, which you won’t) to indicate which of the tenders or 'tinnies' you wish to be on. Then you start gearing up, sign off on your nitrox mix which the dive crew analyse, and step into the tinny with your mask and snorkel. Your gear has already been moved to the tinny and awaits you there, where you gear up as you approach the drop point.
Dive briefings are comprehensive with maps, images of key creatures, and dive site conditions. Before every dive some of the crew visit the site and enter the water to assess current and visibility so they are never sending you in blind. You really feel like you are going to the site as well-armed as possible with all the information. It’s impressive.
You exit the water by passing your fins up to the tinny driver and climbing a sturdy metal ladder at the stern before depositing your gear in one of the tank holes in the bench. The driver is on hand to assist you as necessary including lifting your gear and camera on board. Then you return to the dive deck, rinse your suit and re-position your name tag to confirm you are back on board the mothership. Meanwhile the crew will be taking your gear off the tinny and returning it to your station for refilling, as you shower and chat about the highlights of the dive.
We enjoyed flat calm seas for the whole trip. Crossings at night were a breeze and barely disturbed my blissful slumber. Water temperatures were mostly around 29/30 degrees C.
Current was present at some sites, sometimes a little less than we would have wanted. With a little more current some sites could have been going off in terms of action. If we had been here in the high season I suspect some dives, especially where reef hooks were involved could have been really epic. The visibility, whether attributable to coral spawning or logging run-off in certain areas, meant that some of the potentially amazing dives levelled out at about ‘very good’ on the excitement meter. I would love to come back again in the middle of the season in fact.
Conditions made for pretty easy and low stress diving. If your experience level is such that using a reef hook and surfacing alone or with your buddy using an SMB are not a worry then you will have no issues. If your experience level is such that you really want to have a buddy and to closely follow the guide then that too is an option. Just let them know your preferences.
For me, it took 4 flights to get to Honiara via Kuala Lumpur, Manila and Port Moresby, PNG before touching down in the Solomons. What I learned however is that it is not in fact such a hard-to-get- to destination for everyone.
From the US and Canada for example it is usually a case of a flight to Fiji and a relatively short connection from there. Same from Singapore in fact, if the dates are in your favour. Of course from Australia and New Zealand it is a pretty simple trip. So it is no surprise that North Americans make up the vast majority of guests on the Bilikiki, with Australia and New Zealand accounting for most of the remainder. Word is spreading though and there are more divers coming from further afield who are looking for a new destination outside of the usual spots and one that is a bit like turning back the clock.
Divers seem to come back to the Solomons again and again and the reasons are pretty evident once you experience it for yourself: Away from the crowds. No other boats on any single site. No other divers seen at all in fact. Having sites all to yourself on reefs not polluted by populated cities. Impressive bio-diversity and sheer biomass of fish, aka ‘fishiness’. Dive site variety including WWII wrecks swim-throughs and tunnels. There are not many places left in the world that still maintain the air of frontier diving, of experiencing the seas where you feel privileged to be. The Solomons is one of those places and you can experience it in style withthe Emperor Bilikiki liveaboard. As such it should be on every keen divers ‘To Do’ list.
Written by Gavin Macaulay, December 2025
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Customer rating: Good
It is pretty easy to book with you as your offers are clearly described on your homepage. Your offers seem to be good value for money and I think you check the operators regularly and therefore guarantee high quality scuba holidays.
