Your Guide to Diving in Anilao

Dive The Nudibranch Capital of the World

...Highlights: great macro life/ marine diversity...
...Diving environment: beginner and advanced divers...

Anilao diving has earned a quiet but powerful reputation and is considered the birth place of scuba diving in the Philippines. For many years it was overlooked by international scuba divers while remaining a favourite among locals, many of whom could pop down from the capital for a couple of days' exploring underwater. These days its reputation as a muck diving paradise is well established among divers worldwide, particularly among photographers. Every year there are worldwide competitions and workshops for those seeking to perfect their macro techniques.

Why dive Anilao? Because the small stuff is world class and its extraordinary diversity is now safeguarded as a marine protected area. The diversity really is among the best in the world, with more than 90% of all the coral species on earth. It is also considered a mecca for nudibranchs with over 560 species identified in the area, and locals have claimed it as 'The Nudibranch Capital of the World'. The list of critters for divers to spot in Anilao is almost endless. In addition to an unbelievable number of shrimps and crabs, you will see rhinopias, blue-ringed octopus, mimic octopus and wonderpus, lacy and weedy scorpionfish, stargazers, pygmy seahorses, Bobbit worms and frogfish. As with any place where muck diving is excellent, the night dives can be phenomenal. Anilao is no exception.

There is regular reef diving too, and larger creatures such as sharks, turtles and pelagics, but really the majority of your time spent in Anilao should be enjoying its unique macro wonders. There are up to 55 dive sites with many of them being dotted along the relatively shallow waters near the shoreline. Typically they are shallow coral gardens, some gently sloping, or little walls.

Kirby's Rock is a shallow little wall with a fantastic array of small critters to keep you entertained throughout the long dive. On the shallower side of the rock the wall bottoms out at 16m. Here you can spot moray eels and anemonefish, among others. The deeper side of the wall slopes to 30m and then into the depths. At the deep section there is a large submerged boulder bedecked in sea fans, crinoids and soft corals. It is also covered with innumerable little yellow see cucumbers (Colochirus robustus). They are everywhere. This is a classic Anilao dive site for golden pygmy seahorses clinging to the branches of gorgonians. On the sand look out for blue-lined dart and purple fire gobies. In sheltered zones there may be twin-spot lionfish or a little huddle of harlequin sweetlips. Frogfish may be present here too, squatting near sponges of a similar hue.

Twin Rocks is a favourite Anilao diving spot that goes as deep as 40m although it is normally only explored at depths up to about 18m, since that is where most of the fun is. This is a gentle slope just off the shore and is home to some interesting creatures such as the tiny, fantastic bobtail squid. You might also run into the hard-to-miss colour and frills of a Spanish dancer (Hexabranchus sanguineus). At all times in Anilao, divers should look out for life-on-life, such as squat lobsters in crinoids, gobies on sea whips, or shrimps on Spanish dancers. On the sandy floor, focus your lenses on the sight of a gold speckled jawfish (Opistognathus randalli) lurking furtively in its burrow. This site is known as one where large batfish will approach divers, sometimes right in your face. Jacks and barracuda are also known to be present in small to medium sized schools.

Sombrero Island is a hat shaped island is about a 30m boat ride from Anilao and when conditions are just right, is a riot of activity. There is often some current here feeding the soft corals, gorgonians and crinoids that jostle for space with the very healthy hard corals. Sombrero Island offers a lovely mix of macro life and reef fish on an undulating site of valleys and pillars that never drops deeper than 25m. This Anilao dive is particularly good for mating green nudibranchs (Nembrotha kubaryana), as well as Chromodoris willani and Ardeadoris egretta. The reef fish are often dominated by a red blizzard of anthias. Sometimes it is hard to see past them. If you can, you may see the vivid blue of the many red-toothed triggerfish. Turtles, mantas and eagle rays regularly put in an appearance so make sure you do not always have your head buried in the reef!

At The Cathedral you will find a small concrete cross planted in the substrate at around 15m between 2 underwater pinnacles. It was planted there by former president Ramos in 1983. Since then the corals that have been seeded here have grown significantly and are now swarmed by fish. If they appear a little too friendly it is because they are expected to be fed, as they have been for many years. When the reef slopes down toward 24m you will be in a colourful spot with numerous featherstars, sea stars and barrel sponges decorating the coral patches. Among the many reef fish are pufferfish, moorish idols, triggerfish, surgeonfish and parrotfish. Also look out for hawkfish in the coral bushes, as well butterflyfish and angelfish flitting all around your head. More usual Anilao characters include pygmy seahorses, giant frogfish and octopus. Bamboo sharks have also been seen here many times.

Mainit Point is typical of Anilao, consisting of a current-swept boulder-strewn slope. If the currents are strong some of these larger rocks provide welcome shelter, particularly for photographers. Mainit means hot, and the current rushing through the Maricaban Strait can get spicy, but it feeds a colourful and coral-heavy reef with myriad nudibranchs crawling all over it. In truth it is more of a wide-angle dive with larger species hanging in the nutrient-rich flow. You can expect giant trevally, whitetip reef sharks and dog-toothed tuna. Great barracuda are one of the key species here and the individuals seen at Mainit Point can be of impressive bulk. If you are diving in low current conditions, the site can take on a very different character. There may be fewer pelagics so you can concentrate on the reef and the cave at about 7-8m depth which may have some whitetips resting in it.

More must-dive Anilao sites:
Anilao Pier (Beatriz Pier) - A classic night dive. The pilings are covered in colourful sea squirts, sponges, and hydroids. Frogfish, seahorses, cuttlefish, and the occasional mimic octopus.
Arthur's Rock - A submerged pinnacle surrounded by sand. Currents attract jacks, trevally, and barracuda. The rock is draped in soft corals and gorgonians, with nudibranchs and crustaceans hiding in the cracks.
Basura - a.k.a. Muck & Macro, is another muck-diving Anilao gem. Basura means 'garbage' in Spanish, and the debris on the shallow underwater slope attracts critters such as frogfish, seahorses, and rare nudibranchs. A true Anilao diving classic.
Beatrice Rock - Healthy soft corals and sponges form a beautiful reef structure, where scuba divers can enjoy reliable critter encounters with frogfish and nudibranchs, as well as see turtles.
Dive & Trek - This is one of Anilao’s best shark dives, with whitetip reef sharks, eagle rays, and schools of jacks present. It gets its rather unusual name from back in the days when dive operators would offer combined activity packages featuring scuba diving and jungle treks in the Anilao area.
Koala (Critter Capital) - A sandy slope with scattered rubble, where underwater photographers can find wonderpus, harlequin shrimp, and rhinopias. The name says it all.
Secret Bay (Muck Diving Heaven) - One of the world’s best muck sites, perfect for night dives, and where macro photographers can capture stunning shots of rare critters: such as blue-ringed octopus, mimic octopus, and flamboyant cuttlefish. If you only dive Anilao for one reason, make it this bay.
Sepok Wall - An unusual dive for Anilao, with stunning deep-wall scenery. Gorgonian sea fans and black coral trees adorn the wall to 40m, and occasional sharks swim by.

Diving in Anilao is not for everyone. If you want drift diving through endless hard coral gardens or schooling hammerheads, go to Tubbataha or Palawan. But if you have a macro lens, a patient eye, and a love for the bizarre, this place will ruin you for other muck sites. The critters are plentiful. The guides are sharp. The sheer variety of nudibranchs alone could fill a week of bottom time. Go with an open mind, a good torch, and plenty of patience. Anilao diving rewards those who stay still and look closely.