Trip Report: Sea Serpent Glorious Miss Nouran Liveaboard
The Red Sea - A Liveaboard Diver’s Eden
If there’s a paradise for divers, it lies beneath the sapphire waters of Egypt’s Red Sea. Picture slipping into a realm where time slows, gravity fades, and kaleidoscopic reefs stretch beyond sight - alive with flickering angelfish, gliding rays, and the occasional curious dolphin. From legendary wrecks like the SS Thistlegorm to the vibrant coral gardens of The Brothers, every dive is a front-row seat to nature’s most dazzling display.
Warm waters year-round, superb visibility, and a coastline steeped in ancient mystique make Egypt’s Red Sea more than a dive destination - it’s a siren call for adventurers and marine-life lovers alike.
Our route with the Sea Serpent Glorious Miss Nouran liveaboard included The Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone. These sites offer abundant reef life, colourful soft and hard corals, and occasional pelagic sightings. Over the week we encountered:
2 hammerheads
2 grey reef sharks
2 silky sharks
1 oceanic white-tip
2 reef mantas
A pod of dolphins - brief but magical
The reefs at the Brothers were stunning, teeming with fish and vibrant soft coral. Daedalus had impressive hard coral formations, and Elphinstone gave us our dolphin sighting.
About the Vessel: Sea Serpent Glorious Miss Nouran (SS Glory)
At 131 feet (40m), the SS Glorious Miss Nouran liveaboard accommodates 24 guests and 15 crew, though on our trip we had 23 divers and never felt crowded. The boat is modern, well-equipped, and tailored for those seeking a higher-end experience.
Facilities & Layout
The vessel boasts multiple shaded outdoor lounging areas, a handful of sunbathing berths, and a spacious saloon with comfortable sofas arranged around communal tables. The saloon is ideal for relaxing, socialising, editing photos, or playing cards. A small library onboard includes fish identification guides and fiction books available for borrowing or swapping.
The bar serves local Stella beer (3 Euros), wine, and soft drinks like Coke and Tango. There is no Wi-Fi, and expect about 3 days without any mobile signal, particularly around The Brothers islands.
The boat was captained by Gamal, whose experience was evident, especially when handling some very choppy conditions.
Cabins
Cabins are modern, bright with natural light, and fitted with compact en-suites (note: no shower screen). My twin cabin felt spacious by liveaboard standards, with enough room for one person’s luggage. Storage is limited, but manageable. The air conditioning worked well but was on the noisy side. Given the 35°C September heat, I left mine on most of the time.
There’s hot water 24/7, though you’ll need to run the tap for a minute before it kicks in. Most guests used tap water for brushing teeth without issue, but bottled water is available.
Rooms were cleaned 3 times a day while divers were out - mainly to manage the waste bins, as toilet paper cannot be flushed. Some cabins had minor odour issues from the en-suite; these were usually resolved by flushing to refill the u-bend.
Dining
Meals were served buffet-style across 4 communal tables in the air-con saloon. Food was plentiful and generally well-received, though some guests commented on dry meats and bland flavours. There were no internationally themed meals, for example, Italian, Indian, Thai, or Mexican. There was an occasional side dish of pasta or rice, which may disappoint those expecting more variety.
Vegetarian Options
As a vegetarian, I found the offerings limited. There were no specific vegetarian dishes; instead, I had to rely on side dishes that were available to everyone. This resulted in a low-protein diet, aside from occasional falafel. Vegans or those with dietary restrictions may struggle.
Meals
Breakfast (8 am): Served post-dive, included pancakes, fruit, omelettes (pre-ordered daily), toast, pastries.
Lunch (2 pm): Similar selection to dinner with hot and cold options.
Afternoon snack: Usually light - e.g., cheese on toast.
Dinner (7 pm): Typically included salad, coleslaw, rice, pasta, grilled fish and vegetables, calamari, prawns, and a rotating meat dish (chicken, duck, lamb, etc).
Unlimited tea (multiple varieties), instant coffee, biscuits, cakes, and cold water were available throughout the day.
Special occasions (birthdays and diving milestones) were marked with freshly baked cakes, a thoughtful touch.
Crew & Service
The crew was professional, friendly, and always ready to help. Special mentions go to:
Basim, the saloon manager - attentive, welcoming, and a guest favourite.
Zodiac drivers (Shazley & Refat) - incredibly helpful with pickups and gear handling.
Deckhands (Mustafa, Mohamed & Faye) - efficient and friendly.
While most crew spoke limited English, their warm demeanour made communication easy. One downside: crew smoked in shared social spaces, which could be off-putting. A designated smoking area would improve this.
Dive Leaders
We had mixed experiences with the dive leaders:
Sami: Charismatic, informative, and fun - delivered excellent dive briefings. His group seemed very happy with his leadership.
Dive leader 2: Overly strict (think of a school headmaster) and somewhat difficult to understand underwater. Some of his signals were unfamiliar, and he once led an 80-minute dive to avoid calling the Zodiac.
Dive leader 3: Often strayed from planned routes, leading to confusion. He frequently swam into the blue to search for big fish, bypassing reef highlights.
The ethos of “plan the dive, dive the plan” was not always followed.
Safety
Safety was taken seriously, and the fire drill was thorough. We practised donning life jackets and evacuating via the escape hatch (hidden behind a picture in cabin 7), which required stepping on a cabinet and squeezing through a tight vertical hole - challenging for anyone tall or large. At 193 cm, I found it tight getting my legs through. The escape route may not be practical for taller/larger body types, and this warrants serious review. Once on deck they explained where to gather and how to launch the lifeboats. Although the fire drill was excellent, it might be better if this was done immediately you onboarded rather than after the first dive on the second day.
All fire extinguishers were certified, and there are no in-cabin power sockets due to fire risk. All charging must be done in communal or designated areas, making hair styling or charging personal devices a bit inconvenient.
The Diving Procedure
Each dive began with an informative and entertaining site briefing, usually led by the charismatic Sami. The dive deck was well-organised, with plenty of space. Nitrox (typically 29-30%) was available, and divers recorded readings before each dive.
Gear & Safety
One large freshwater tank for cameras/computers.
4 showers at the stern (2 with lukewarm water).
2 communal toilets, always kept clean.
Each diver was provided with a towel for the week.
Max depth: 30m, dive time: 60 minutes, and no deco dives.
All divers carried an SMB (emergency only) and an ENOS beacon.
All dives were negative entries, with dive group meet ups at 6m underwater. An extra weight helped with rapid descents.
Surface Support
Zodiac drivers were quick to respond and assisted efficiently in the water. Upon return to the boat, fins were removed and stowed for you - excellent service.
Due to the route being in the southern marine parks, only one night dive could be offered; torches were available for hire.
Water Conditions
Visibility: 20-30m
Water temperature: 26-29°C
Thermoclines common - those in 5 mm suits were grateful for the added insulation
Currents: mild, no need for reef hooks
Expect blue-water hangs if your guide is focused on pelagics
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrived at 7 pm, overnight on board
Day 2 - Embarked at 8 am after coast guard inspection. Had briefings, check dive + 2 more (including night dive) near Ras Shona. Transit 6 hours to the Brothers.
Day 3-4 - The Brothers. Transit 9 hours to Daedalus
Day 5–6 - Daedalus. Transit 6 hours to Elphinstone
Day 7 - Elphinstone (2 morning dives), 2.5 hours return to port. Overnight in port.
Day 8 - Disembark is usually after breakfast, but can be as late as 5 pm (if you have a later flight)
Arrival & Logistics
After arrival at Marsa Alam Airport, we were met by the Sea Serpent team for a 30-minute transfer to Port Ghalib. The port has shops, cafes, and tourist curio stalls. Check-in aboard included paperwork, passport collection, dive insurance, and certification - though no one asked to see mine, which was fortunate, as I’d forgotten it.
Travel Tips
September air temps: 32-35°C, no need for evening layers
Water temps: 26-29°C
Many divers wore shorties, rash vests, or 3 mm wetsuits
My hired equipment (regulators and a BCD) was very good
No gloves allowed
Visibility excellent, thermoclines frequent
Reef life is stunning, but don’t expect Maldives-scale pelagics every time
Final Thoughts
The Sea Serpent Glorious Miss Nouran offers a professional and mostly comfortable diving experience with some room for improvement, particularly around vegetarian options, smoking policies, and dive leader consistency.
If you’re chasing big pelagics, manage your expectations - encounters are possible but an element of luck is required. However, for reef lovers and underwater photographers, the Red Sea’s vivid coral ecosystems and fish life are world-class.
Special thanks to Basim, Shazley, Refat, Sami, and the rest of the crew - your dedication and hard work made the week smooth and enjoyable.
Written by Elliott Hey, October 2025
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